My Old Kentucky Home - Federal Hill, Bardstown, Kentucky

Federal Hill Mansion

In honor of October being the month of Halloween - and other things spooky - all of my blogs this month have dealt with a haunted location and the cemetery that ties into the story.

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Just east of Bardstown, Kentucky is the former plantation of U.S. Senator John Rowan.  Rowan and his wife, Ann Lytle, began building their mansion in 1795 and named it ‘Federal Hill’ after Rowan’s political views as a Federalist.    ‘Federal Hill’ was designed in true Federalist style.  There are thirteen windows across the front of the house, the ceilings are thirteen feet high and the walls are 13 inches thick. Each staircase has 13 steps.

But the number 13 may have proven to be unlucky for Rowan.  In 1801, Rowan was playing cards with Dr. James Chambers when harsh words were exchanged and led to the challenge of a duel between the two.  Rowan apologized for his comments but Chambers insisted that the duel be held.  Rowan survived, but his promising political career almost didn’t.  He was tried for the murder of Chambers, but the judge found insufficient evidence to convict him.  It was over a year later, before Rowan was appointed to serve in the Kentucky House of Representatives.

John Rowan

Throughout his life, Rowan served in many state and national offices. He served as a Kentucky state judge, Chief Justice for the Court of Appeals, Kentucky Secretary of State, as a representative in the U.S. House and as a U.S. Senator.  In all, he served for forty years in political life.

Epitaph

Rowan loved Federal Hill and felt that the mansion stood as a monument and testament to his ideas and beliefs.  He stated in his will, he did not want a monument or any type of marker on his grave.  He said that since his parents did not have a marker, he did not want to be honored above them by having one.  On July 13, 1843, Rowan died and was buried at Federal Hill Cemetery near his home.  Friends and family did not adhere to his wishes for an unmarked grave. A tall obelisk monument with a lengthy and glowing epitaph was placed at his gravesite.

Rowan's Monument

But by autumn, the stone had fallen over.  Stonemasons were called to repair the monument and return it to its base. Again and again, the obelisk fell to the ground.  The toppling of the monument became so common that worker refused to assist in setting it back in place, fearing that Rowan was indeed displeased by the large monument. 

Rumor has it that the stone is still known to tip over without provocation, and is just as quietly put back in place.  It appears that John Rowan meant what he said almost 170 years ago – his home was the only monument he wanted to be remembered by.

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But what is Federal Hill truly remembered for?

Stephen Foster

Original Sheet Music

It was in 1852, almost ten years after John Rowan died that his cousin; Stephen Foster paid a visit to Federal Hill.  It was rumored that during this visit, Foster was inspired to write the minstrel song, “My Old Kentucky Home, Good Night.”  It was published in 1853 and performed by Christy’s Minstrels.  Although many of the songs that Foster wrote had Southern themes, he never lived in the South and only visited the area once.

Sheet Music

“My Old Kentucky Home” was adopted as the state song of Kentucky in 1928.  It was in 1986 when Kentucky Representative Carl Hines sponsored a bill to revise the lyrics, changing the word ‘darkies’ to ‘people.’

Federal Hill in the Twenties

Federal Hill was sold to the state of Kentucky in 1920 and was called “My Old Kentucky Home.”   In 1936 it was transferred to the Division of State Parks where it became known as “My Old Kentucky Home State Park.”

The longest running outdoor musical, “Stephen Foster- The Musical” plays during the summer months at the state park amphitheater.  Started in 1959, the show runs from June through August each year.

Federal Hill was featured on a 29 cent U.S. postage stamp in 1992, and is now depicted on the back of the Kentucky state quarter, released in 2002.

The Federal Hill Mansion and Cemetery are open to the public.  Please check their website for days and times. http://www.parks.ky.gov/parks/recreationparks/old-ky-home/default.aspx

~ Joy

Cemeteries Worth the Visit – Richmond Cemetery, Richmond, KY

Richmond Cemetery is located in Richmond, Kentucky is the largest cemetery in Madison County.  The city originally had a graveyard located on a knoll near town, but it had reached capacity and another location was needed. Unfortunately the history of this cemetery and the Richmond Cemetery, up to August 1862, were lost when Confederate soldiers broke into the courthouse and stole the original cemetery records during the Civil War.

In January 1848 the Kentucky General Assembly incorporated the Richmond Cemetery.  An additional 18 acres were purchased in the early 1850’s.  The cemetery was dedicated on May 31, 1856.  The next day, June 1^st the first burial took place.  The first to be interred was Jane Todd Breck, wife of U.S. Representative Daniel Breck, and aunt to Mary Todd Lincoln.

The cemetery now consists of over 70 acres located in the middle of town.  The rolling hills and winding roads add to the peaceful feel, even though you can hear traffic (and the EKU marching band) throughout the cemetery.  Trees and flowers are prolific throughout the cemetery, giving it a true Rural Cemetery feel.  Stones range from simple to extremely ornate obelisks, statues and sculpture.  There are no mausoleums, but a public vault was added in 1900.

Cassius M. Clay

Clay Memorial

Kentucky governors, and members of Richmond’s prominent families: the Clays, Chenaults and Tribbles are buried here, along with Kentucky abolitionist, Cassius M. Clay.  Clay grew up the son of one of the wealthiest landowners and slaveholders in Kentucky.  Clay became an ardent anti-slave crusader and served three times in the Kentucky House of Representatives. Clay is whom Muhammad Ali was named for.

Depiction of his murder

Captain James Estill

Kentucky frontiersman, Captain James Estill has a memorial that commands attention.  Estill, one of the first Madison County settlers, was killed by Indians in 1782 in the Battle of Little Mountain, near Mount Sterling, Kentucky.  His monument depicts his murder as a Wyandotte Indian prepares to stab him in the chest.  Atop the monument, Estill stands, dressed in a fringed coat, holding his rifle and gazing out over the town.

Civil War Monument

Confederate Monument

In 1862, a portion of the Battle of Richmond was fought in the cemetery with soldiers using tombstones for cover!  The Confederate troops pushed the Union soldiers into the graveyard where they proceeded to defeat them.  Over 240 Union troops are buried here.  Over 175 Confederate soldiers are buried in a mass grave marked with a small stone that says “The Southern Dead.”  A new monument was later erected and dedicated to all Civil War soldiers buried there.

The cemetery also is the burial site to a Revolutionary War captain.

Vandalism

Over 100 gorgeous old monuments and stones were toppled and damaged in April 2010 when vandals broke into the cemetery.  Many were irreplaceable.

The Richmond Cemetery is located on East Main Street in Richmond, Kentucky.  It is open from 8:00 A.M. until 4 P.M.  You may reach them at (859) 623-2529 for information on genealogical research.  The cemetery does not have a web site or Facebook presence.

The Richmond Cemetery is well worth an afternoon, even a day, to explore.  The older part is a treasure trove of statues, monuments and stone bearing interesting and informative symbols and epitaphs.

~ Joy

Cemeteries Worth the Visit: Lexington Cemetery, Lexington, Kentucky

Lexington, Kentucky

Lexington Cemetery, located in Lexington, Kentucky, is the second largest cemetery in the Commonwealth of Kentucky.  It is a private, non-profit cemetery, comprised of 170 acres with over 64,000 buried there.  Cemetery officials estimated that this amount of land should enable the cemetery to continue burying for at least two centuries.

It is believed that the cholera epidemic was a driving force in getting the city fathers to consider creating a cemetery away from where the main population lived.   The cemetery was incorporated in 1848.  Architect Julius Adams designed the cemetery in the Gothic Romanesque style as a ‘rural cemetery,’ with natural wooded areas and lakes in a park-like setting.

The first plot was sold in August 1849 for the interment of Lexington businessman, Robert S. Boyd who had died of cholera.  Boyd had been buried in the Episcopal Cemetery, but was moved to Lexington Cemetery on October 2, 1849 and laid to rest there, along with his infant son.  By the end of 1850, almost ninety burials had taken place, including the reinterrment of several who had been buried in other community graveyards.

Original Gateway

In 1849, bids were gathered for the construction of a central cemetery entrance gateway and buildings.  In all, almost $3,000 was spent for the three arched stone and iron gateways, which were flanked by a reception room and office.  Above the east gate, the inscription read, “Lexington Cemetery, Founded A.D. 1849.”  Over the west gate was carved, “City of the Dead.”

There are many notables buried in Lexington Cemetery. Among the numerous politicians, authors, businessmen, and sports figures, lie some of history’s famous.

  

Clay's Monument

Henry Clay

Henry Clay, known as “The Great Compromiser,” is buried here.  Clay served as a lawyer, U.S. Congressman, Senator, and U.S. Secretary of State.  He ran for President three times but was unsuccessful in his bids. Clay died June 29, 1852 in Washington, D.C.  His body was born 1,200 miles back to Lexington by train, barge and carriage.  His friends and fellow politicians worked diligently for the next five years in order to purchase, what they felt was, a suitable monument, at the cost of $43,920, to be erected for Clay.   The cornerstone was laid on July 4, 1857 and the monument was completed in 1861.  Clay’s body was not moved to the new monument due to the start of the Civil War.  But three years later, both his and his wife’s bodies were interred there in 1864.  The Clay monument is the only marker in the cemetery’s Section M.

John H. Morgan

Morgan's Grave

John Hunt Morgan, well-known Confederate General of the Civil War, is also buried here.  Morgan is best remembered for Morgan’s Raid, where he led his men, on horseback, over 1,000 miles, from Tennessee, through Kentucky, into Indiana, and over into southern Ohio.  This was the farthest point north any uniformed Confederate troops ever reached during the war.  Captured and held in a federal prison in Ohio, Morgan managed to escape by tunneling out. He was shot and killed September 4, 1864 during a raid in Tennessee.

The Sweep of Cholera 

William 'King" Solomon

Although not rich with wealth, William “King” Solomon showed his mettle during the cholera outbreak. Over 500 Lexington residents died in eight weeks during the 1833 epidemic.  While the majority of the city fled, Solomon, an indentured servant, stayed of his own accord.  He dug graves for the victims for over two months, working during the day and sleeping in the cemetery at night. It is said that the following autumn, Solomon was sitting in the back of a courtroom, awaiting the proceedings, when the presiding judge stepped down from his bench and approached him.  The judge reached out and shook his hand as a manner of thanking him for his service to the city during the epidemic.  No sooner had the judge turned, than the entire room lined up to express their appreciation as well.  Solomon had been recognized for his valor in the face of death.

Confederate Soldier Monument

Lexington Cemetery is the site of two military monuments and a National Cemetery.  The Confederate Soldier Monument was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1997 as part of the Civil War Monuments of Kentucky.  It depicts a Confederate soldier looking off, as if in thought. The names of the Confederate dead on inscribed on the base.

Ladies Confederate Memorial

Behind this the Ladies Confederate Memorial is located.  It was erected in 1874 and also placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1997.  This monument touches you and seems to sum up the heartache and sorrow felt for all who died for the Confederacy during the war.  Designed by George W. Ranck, of Lexington, the monument shows a draped marble cross, surrounded by a broken sword, a broken flagstaff and lilies. It is believed that the monument was inspired by Confederate Chaplin, Father Abram Joseph Ryan who wrote this poem:

Father Abram J. Ryan

The Conquered Banner

Furl that banner, softly, slowly!

Treat it gently – it is holy –

For it droops above the dead.

Touch it not – unfold it never.

Let it droop there, furled forever,

For its people’s hope are dead!

                                    ~ Abram Joseph Ryan

A paper found in the front of one of the cemetery interment books states that between October 4, 1861 and July 26, 1865, there were 828 U.S. white volunteers, 40 U.S. colored Volunteers and 97 disloyals buried here.  Another 965 Union dead were also interred in the Union section of the cemetery. After the war, the U.S. government purchased an adjoining 16,111 feet in the Union cemetery and had the area designated as a national cemetery.  The Southern section was released to the Confederate Veterans Association in 1891.  The CVA purchased another 510 square feet of land in 1892.  Two more lots were purchased bringing the total of the Southern section to 853 square feet.  All sections in the national cemetery are now filled and no new burials are allowed here.

A Family Tree

The Lexington Cemetery offers assistance with genealogical research.  The web page has a section for researchers at http://www.lexcem.org/index.cfm/genealogy.html.   It tells how to request help and how to schedule an appointment.  Anyone with information they would like to have added to the cemetery’s genealogical files should contact them.

The Lexington Cemetery also has the designation as an arboretum with over 200 species of trees.  Self-guided tree walks can be conducted with the assistance of maps available at the cemetery office.  This is a cemetery that changes dramatically with each passing season and can be enjoyed anew every few months.

There are numerous markers and stones throughout the cemetery that will captivate you, and all have a story to tell.  Be sure to grab a map when you enter and take your time when wandering among the stones.  There are hidden jewels everywhere!  Take the opportunity to search for them.

The Lexington Cemetery is open everyday from 8 A.M. to 5 P.M.  It is located at 833 West Main Street in Lexington, Kentucky 40508.  The phone number is (859) 255-5522.  For more information, visit their web site at http://www.lexcem.org/ or visit their FaceBook page at http://www.facebook.com/pages/Lexington-Cemetery/23514189569. For information contact them at info@lexcem.org

 

Adventure abounds in the Lexington Cemetery.  It is a perfect example of a ‘rural cemetery,’ one where nature blends seamlessly within the city.  If you plan on visiting, take the day to enjoy it.  There is so much to see and do, you’ll be glad you did!

~ Joy